IMPORTANT! Your Dog’s State of Mind When Lost and Frightened: Understand and Respect Survival Mode

It is very, very important to understand that a lost, scared dog is not in the same state of mind as they are when they feel safe and secure.

When a dog is lost and frightened, they enter survival mode. Some dogs enter survival mode as soon as they become lost, their leash is dropped, or they get out of their backyard. Others may take longer, but nearly 100% of dogs will enter survival mode if lost long enough.

Survival mode can be thought of as a return to the dog’s primal instincts. All of the dog’s senses are heightened and focused on survival. The first priority of a dog in survival mode is to protect themself, and they feel that they can only trust and rely on themself to stay safe. In their mind, they are on their own.

To a dog in survival mode, humans are seen as the biggest threat. A dog will perceive ALL people as threats and avoid them. This includes members of a dog’s own family. Family members are not a safe haven to a dog in survival mode. If they are in survival mode, they will be scared of you and avoid you. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve had your dog or how bonded you are. A dog in survival mode only trusts themself - they come to no one, avoid everyone.

This may be difficult to understand and heartbreaking to accept, but it is crucial to remember throughout your lost dog search. All too often, dogs in survival mode are chased from a location they were known to be, sometimes by their own family, and move to a new, unknown location, putting rescuers back at square one. Or worse, they are chased into harm’s way and face injury and death.

A dog in survival mode needs to be left alone to follow their survival instincts until they can safely be trapped. The best way to help a dog in survival mode is to raise awareness that they are lost (see below) so that people who see your dog will know who to call. Once sightings provide clues to your dog’s location, the trapping process can begin.

After being trapped and returned to safety, dogs come out of survival mode and resume their normal routine, usually without any lasting effects from the experience.

Immediately Upon Realizing Your Dog is Lost

If Your Dog is Gone but You Didn’t See Them Get Loose

• If you came home and your dog does not seem to be in the house, or if you have been inside your home with your dog and they suddenly seem to not be around, your dog may have become frightened and be hiding somewhere inside.

  • Look in every nook and cranny of your house. Move every piece of furniture. Look under every blanket and behind every curtain. Turn your house upside down. Keep all exterior doors securely closed while you search.

• If you have been home with your dog and your dog has possibly been outside, check everywhere within your house and everywhere on the rest of your property. Your dog may be hiding inside the house, or in a spot outside of your house where they feel safe.

  • Check every corner of every building on your property, including under decks and porches.

  • Check your car - there have been cases of dogs who have slipped into cars while their family is loading/unloading and, unaware that their dog is in the car, family members close the doors and the dog is stuck inside.

  • Check natural hiding spots that your dog could have found outside - under bushes, behind large rocks, within patches of woods or hedges - anywhere the dog could fit or blend into. This should be an extremely thorough search - most dogs are such good hiders that you could practically be on top of them and not realize it.

• If your dog was possibly outside of your house and you cannot find them anywhere on your property, they may have moved to a different location. In that case, follow the guidelines in the next section.

If You Saw Your Dog Get Loose

• If you have an invisible/wireless fence, disable it so your dog can re-enter your yard without being shocked if they return home on their own.

• Calmly walk around your neighborhood or close to the point of escape to see if your dog is still in the immediate area. Bring your dog’s favorite treats and collar/harness/leash if your dog wasn’t wearing any when they got loose.

• If you see your dog, do not do anything that may startle them, such as loudly calling out, whistling, approaching, or chasing. This could cause your dog to move farther away.

• Try to get your dog to come to you by sitting down, remaining calm, and speaking to them as you would at home.

• If they approach you, remain sitting calmly. Toss food/treats in their direction to lure them to you. Do not attempt to take hold of them until they are within arm’s reach. This may be a slow process and should not be rushed.

• Many dogs find their way back to the spot that they escaped from within 2-3 days, even if it is a new home or location that they are not very familiar with. If you cannot find your dog in the immediate area, or your dog will not approach you, there are a few things you can do at the point of escape in case your dog returns on their own.

  • After dark, try grilling or smoking meat. Get as much smoke in the air as possible. The smell of the meat will travel and may reach your dog and lure them back.

  • Disable all outdoor lighting. If your dog returns home on their own at night, lights will likely make them feel too exposed and nervous to approach the house.

  • Put items familiar to your dog outside, such as their crate, blankets, toys, etc. If they return to this point and recognize these items, they may stay with them and wait.

  • Leave food and water outside. Choose a spot close to where your dog is used to going in and out of the house, but not right up against the house. For instance, at the bottom of the steps to a porch/deck. The food should be high-value with a strong scent, such as grilled hot dogs, rotisserie chicken, or ground beef. If you have a trail camera, set it up so that you can see what eats the food. If you do not have a trail camera, spread flour or corn starch around the food so that you can see if dog tracks are left behind (wildlife will likely help themselves to some of the food). Replenish the food as needed or each night before dark. Replenish the flour or corn starch as needed.

  • If your dog returns on their own, they may be scared from being lost and take some time to become comfortable enough to approach the house. Do not try to rush your dog by approaching, chasing, or calling out. This may send them running and push them away. Let your dog go at their own pace and continue to provide food and water. Many dogs will become comfortable enough to approach the house and want to come inside within 24 hours. However, some dogs will be too scared and will leave the yard immediately after eating the food. If your dog has returned to eat two or more times, it is likely that they are too scared to approach the house and will need to be trapped in the yard. This is more common than many people realize. If you are at this point with your dog, we may be able to help. Please submit a Request for Help.

If Your Dog Got Lost While Hiking/Trail Walking/Camping

• In all likelihood your dog will return to the car, trailhead, or campsite. It does not matter if it is a new location that your dog is unfamiliar with. They will most likely find their way back. Most dogs will return shortly after darkness falls or within 24 hours.

• If you drove to the trail location, you must patiently wait by your car. If you walked to the trail location, you must patiently wait at the entrance to the trail. If you are camping, you must patiently wait at the campsite. We cannot stress enough - be patient and WAIT. If you have to, arrange for someone to bring you food and water while you wait, or take turns waiting with someone else (this person must also be very close with the dog, who is unlikely to approach someone they are unfamiliar with). Too many times people leave this spot and their dog returns looking for them but no one is there. Another common mistake is to drop a familiar item in this spot and leave. This does not work. Just WAIT.

If Your Dog Ran from a Car Accident

• Dogs who run from car accidents usually do not go far, but are in survival mode, are extremely scared, and stay hidden.

• Unless your dog is injured, we do not recommend physically searching for them near the scene of the accident, as it is likely to further scare the dog and push them farther away. Given enough time to decompress from the situation, they are likely to return to the location of the accident, usually within 12-48 hours.

• If you can, stay at the location of the accident and patiently wait with a car that the dog is familiar with.

• If you cannot stay at the location of the accident, leave food and water nearby, away from the road. If you know what direction your dog ran, leave it away from the road in that direction.

  • If you have a trail camera, use it to monitor the food and see if your dog finds it.

  • If you do not have a trail camera, spread flour or corn starch on the ground around the food so that if it gets eaten you can see what kind of animal tracks are left behind. Check this spot twice daily, including just before dark, to see if the food has been eaten. If so, replenish the food, even if you do not see dog tracks. If the food has not been eaten, replace it with fresh food. Replenish the flour/corn starch as necessary.

• If your dog returns to the location of the accident and you are waiting, do not do anything that may startle them, such as loudly calling out, whistling, approaching, or chasing. Try to get your dog to come to you by sitting down, remaining calm, and speaking to them as you would at home. If they approach you, remain sitting calmly. Toss food/treats in their direction to lure them to you. Do not attempt to take hold of them until they are within arm’s reach. This may be a slow process and should not be rushed.

• If you know that your dog has returned to the location of the accident but you are unable to wait there for them, or they will not approach you, they are almost certainly still in survival mode and will be too scared to approach anyone. In all likelihood they will need to be trapped. At this point, we recommend submitting a Request for Help. Attempting to get your dog on your own in this situation will most likely scare them even more and send them running, possibly to a new, unknown location, making the situation much worse.

Within 24-48 Hours after Your Dog Becomes Lost

DO NOT Physically Search for Your Dog, DO NOT Encourage Others to Search for Your Dog, and DO NOT Send Out Search Parties

• If you did not find your dog shortly after you realized they were missing (see first section of this guide), do not go physically searching for them. Although it seems like the best course of action, if your dog is in survival mode (see top of page), physically searching for them at this point will almost certainly make the situation much worse. Physical searches are likely to make your dog feel threatened and even more frightened. This will cause your dog to move farther and farther away, making it more and more difficult to locate and rescue them.

• If you are walking or driving around and happen to see your dog out in the open, you may be able to get them to come to you by following the guidance in the section above If You Saw Your Dog Get Loose. It is also very possible that your dog will be in survival mode (see top of page) and will be too scared to come to you.

• Remember that every second counts. It is unlikely that you will happen to see your dog if you walk or drive around. The best use of your time at this point is to focus on raising awareness that your dog is lost (see next section).

EXCEPTIONS

• Physically searching for your dog is encouraged ONLY in these exceptional circumstances: your dog has significant mobility issues, such as debilitating arthritis, if they are elderly and have mental health issues such as dementia, or if they got loose with a leash on (the leash could get tangled on something and they may get stuck somewhere).

  • If your dog is in one of these situations, you must search carefully and methodically; do not walk around aimlessly. First try to identify the direction your dog went in, and then the path your dog traveled. Dogs tend to choose the path of least resistance but avoid crossing through open areas, preferring to hug edges like fences or treelines as they move. So look for trails, treelines, walls, fences, railroad tracks, ditches, farm/tractor roads, edges of fields/growing fields.

  • Supplies to bring on your search: a bright flashlight so you can check in dark spots, even in the daylight (the flashlight on your phone will not be enough); utility knife to cut through a leash/collar/harness in case the dog is stuck; water for yourself and the dog; pruning shears and/or a small saw to cut branches.

  • Slowly and very quietly walk the path you believe your dog most likely traveled. As you walk, look down to see if you can spot dog tracks and keep an eye out for the color of any leash/harness/collar your dog was wearing. If they are found, dogs in these situations are usually hiding close to their path of travel. Methodically search within about 20 feet of this path, keeping track of each location you go. For instance, slowly walk and quietly search one side of a trail going out and the other side coming back. Tie strips of cloth/ribbon on trees as you go to mark locations already searched. You will have to thoroughly check hiding spots such as patches of brush, low-hanging branches, vines, debris, and open buildings or structures. This will be a time consuming, intensive process.

Raise Awareness that Your Dog is Lost

You must get the word out that your dog is lost. This will make people aware of who to contact if they see your dog. Without knowing who to call, most people who see a lost dog will do nothing. Sightings of your dog are necessary for rescue efforts to begin.

Report Your Dog Lost to Local Dog Control Services/Law Enforcement

Create and Distribute a Flyer

Most sightings come from people who have seen lost dog flyers. Posting on social media is great (see below), but the vast majority of people who you need to reach will not see your social media posts. Flyers are absolutely critical in raising awareness that your dog is lost.

Creating Your Flyer

• Use bright, eye-catching colors with “LOST DOG” in large print.

• Include picture(s) of your dog that clearly show colors, markings, and your dog’s face.

• Include the phrase “Do Not Chase.'“

• Ask people to help by checking outdoor cameras, especially from overnight hours.

• Include your cell phone number and ask people to call or text with any information. This should be a number that is accessible 24/7.

• DO NOT offer a reward. This will cause people to try to catch the dog if they happen to see it, which will most likely push your dog farther away.

Flyer Templates

• If you would like to make your own flyer from scratch, one option is Canva, which will allow you to design a flyer for free.

• Available for download below are two flyer templates - the first allows you to add one picture of your dog and the second allows you to add two pictures. Click on the links to download. Follow the instructions below the links to open the template, add pictures and text, and save your flyer.

• Lost Dog Flyer Template One Picture (Download)

• Lost Dog Flyer Template Two Pictures (Download)

  • Click on a link above to download a flyer template.

  • Open the template with Adobe Acrobat Reader (free version can be downloaded here - you do not need the Pro version)

  • Click on the drawing of the dog to select a picture from your computer to add to the flyer.

  • Click on “Click to Add Text” to add information about your dog (see above).

  • Click on “Phone #” to add your cell phone number.

  • After adding pictures, information about your dog, and your cell phone number, save your flyer to your computer.

  • Close Adobe Acrobat Reader.

  • For unknown reasons, if you open your flyer in Adobe Acrobat Reader, your pictures will not be visible. Instead, open your flyer in Google Chrome (download here).

  • Once open in Google Chrome, click on the printer icon in the top left of the screen. A window will pop up. On the lefthand side, in the dropdown menu next to “Destination,” select “Save as PDF.” Then click the blue “Save” button to save your flyer to your computer. You now have a flyer that is ready for print and distribution.

Distributing Your Flyer

• Print several hundred color copies of your flyer to start. One option is Syracuse Printing Center, which offers affordable rates.

• Hang flyers within a two- to three-mile radius of the location from which your dog went missing. We recommend the following spots:

  • Telephone poles at intersections

  • Ask local businesses if you can tape a flyer in their window. Think of places that everyone goes to - gas stations, pharmacies, grocery stores, convenience stores, coffee shops, etc.

  • Dog-related businesses - daycares, groomers, pet stores, vet clinics

  • Community bulletin boards/community centers

  • Trailheads of walking/biking trails - hang flyers so that they can be seen both when people enter and exit the trails

  • Local parks, including dog parks

• Flyer Hanging Tips

  • When stapling a flyer to a telephone pole or other surface, use one staple in the center of the flyer and one in each corner. This will help prevent the flyer from falling off in bad weather.

  • When hanging flyers along roadways or at intersections, face the flyers toward oncoming traffic. Especially at intersections, use multiple flyers angled in different directions.

  • Bring tape with you in case some areas have only metal poles. Packing tape or heavier-duty masking tape should work. Tape all four sides of the flyer down, covering all edges.

• Some neighborhoods may not have telephone poles or other spots to hang flyers. Distribute flyers door to door in these neighborhoods. If your flyer has a description of your dog’s coloring, you can use black-and-white copies. These could even be smaller copies (e.g., printed two per page and cut to size).

• Hand a copy of your flyer to:

  • Mail carriers, delivery truck drivers

  • Local animal clinics/vet offices. Include your dog’s microchip information.

  • Local highway departments, departments of public works, departments of transportation. Ask if the flyer can be distributed to all workers who are out on the roads.

Post on Social Media and Check Social Media for Posts about Sightings of Loose Dogs and Found Dogs

Create social media posts about your dog and ask people to share them. At the same time, browse social media for posts of found dogs.

• Include pictures of your dog and the same information that you put on the flyer (see above).

• DO NOT include information about the location of any sightings of your dog. This tends to drive people to the location of the sightings, which will push your dog farther away.

• DO NOT offer a reward. This will cause people to try to catch the dog if they happen to see it, which will push your dog farther away.

• Make it very clear that people should NOT try to go look for your dog.

• Make it very clear that If people see your dog, they should NOT approach or chase. Just call the number to report a sighting.

• We recommend the following social media outlets:

  • Nextdoor

  • Facebook Group Lost & Found Pets of CNY

  • Facebook Group LOST AND FOUND PETS OF CNY

  • Ring Community/Neighbors App

  • Pawboost (has some free and some paid features to spread the word about your dog)

If Your Dog is Microchipped

• Make sure the contact information associated with your dog’s microchip is up to date.

• Make sure you know how the microchip company will contact you if your dog is found. If it is by email, regularly check for messages.

Check Local Shelters

If a dog is taken to a shelter and does not have ID tags or a license and is not microchipped, the shelter has no way of knowing who to contact. If your dog has no way to be identified, check shelters in the area to see if any dogs fitting your dog’s description have been brought in. Here is a list of shelters in the area:

• B&R Bunkhouse (City of Syracuse): 315-546-4242

• CNY SPCA (Onondaga County): 315-454-4479

• Camillus Town Kennel (Onondaga County): 315-488-1234

• Finger Lakes Dog Protection Agency (Cayuga County): 315-253-4367

• Finger Lakes SPCA of CNY (Cayuga County): 315-253-5841

• Cortland County SPCA (Cortland County): 607-753-9386

• Country Acres Animal Shelter (Cortland County): 607-749-2734

• Wanderer’s Rest Humane Association (Madison County): 315-697-2796

• Humane Society of Rome (Oneida County): 315-336-7070

• Anita’s Stevens Swan Humane Society (Oneida County): 888-306-1878

• Oswego City Animal Shelter (Oswego County): 315-343-1803

• Palermo Town Kennel (Oswego County): 315-593-2333 (ext. 226)

Call Highway Departments/Departments of Public Works/Departments of Transportation

When animal remains are found on a roadway, the highway department, department of public works, or department of transportation will be called to pick them up. If the animal is a dog, they will not scan for a microchip or notify local dog control services, and may not even keep records of the call or who responded. Contact local highway departments, departments of public works, and departments of transportation to see if they have received any calls and if you can get more information about the animal or who responded to the call.

Request Help

If there have been sightings of your dog, our trapper may be able to help. Visit our Request Help page for more information.

How to Manage Reports of Sightings

Be Available 24/7

Make sure you can be reached on your cell phone 24 hours a day in case someone contacts you with a sighting. Keep a log of sightings. Log names and contact information from callers in case you need to follow up.

Getting Information from Someone Who Contacts You with a Sighting

Keep in mind that every lost dog search has sightings of dogs that aren’t yours, or reported sightings of animals that are not even dogs. There are several important pieces of information to get from someone who contacts you with a sighting. Ask the following questions and record the person’s answers in a log of sightings. When asking questions, do not provide information about your dog or anything they may be wearing. You do not want to give people ideas about what they might have seen.

• Can you describe the dog you saw? (colors/markings/size/male or female/collar or harness/color of collar or harness)

• When did you see the dog?

• Where did you see the dog? (ask for specific address/location/landmark)

• Was the dog in the road, on a sidewalk, in a parking lot, in a yard (front or back)?

• What was the dog doing when you saw them?

• What direction was the dog coming from? What direction were they moving in?

Beware of Scam Artists

Unfortunately, there are people who prey on the owners of lost dogs by sending them messages that they have their dog and expect a reward before returning the dog. If you are contacted by someone who says they have your dog, ask them to send you a picture. If they cannot produce a picture, they are probably trying to scam you.

DO NOT Broadcast Details about Sightings! DO NOT Post Sightings on Social Media!

If you receive a sighting that you believe to be your dog, keep the information to yourself. Telling others about the sighting is likely to drive people to the location to physically search for your dog. Although these people are well-intentioned and want to help, physically searching for a dog is very likely to make the situation much worse (see section above). Information about sightings should only be shared with a trapper.

What To Do at The Location of a Sighting

• Your first impulse after receiving a sighting is to go to the location and physically search for your dog. It may sound crazy, but this is the wrong thing to do. Physically searching for your dog is very likely to make the situation much worse.

• If you go to the location of the sighting, bring a leash and collar and your dog’s favorite treats. But do not physically search around for them. Remain calm and very quiet. If your dog is still there, any noise could send them running to another, unknown location.

• If you see your dog at the location of a sighting, do not do anything that may startle them, such as loudly calling out, whistling, approaching, or chasing. This could cause your dog to run and move to a new, unknown location.

  • Try to get your dog to come to you by sitting down, remaining calm, and speaking to your dog as you would at home.

  • If they approach you, remain sitting calmly. Toss food/treats in their direction to lure them to you. Do not attempt to take hold of them until they are within arm’s reach. This may be a very slow process and cannot be rushed - your dog will set the pace.

• If it has been several days since your dog became lost, your dog may have started to establish a pattern of behavior. At this point, a sighting may provide information about your dog’s routine. If they are seen in one location, they may return, especially if they have found food there. Getting a dog eating in one spot is the first step in the rescue process.

• If you go to the location of a sighting and your dog is nowhere in sight, or you cannot get your dog by hand, leave a pile of desirable food, such as grilled hot dogs, at the location.

  • If you have a trail camera, set it up so that you can monitor the food and see if your dog finds it.

  • If you do not have a trail camera, spread flour or corn starch on the ground around the food so that if it gets eaten you can see what kind of animal tracks are left behind. Check this spot twice daily, including just before dark, to see if the food has been eaten. If so, replenish the food. Even if you do not see dog tracks near the food, keep the food replenished. It may take your dog a little while to find it. Replenish the flour/corn starch as necessary.

  • Do not visit this spot after dark, as many lost dogs come out after dark to look for food and you do not want to scare them away.

  • Ideally, get a trail camera. This should not be your first priority, but would be helpful for monitoring the food.

  • We do not recommend attempting to trap your dog on your own unless you have consulted with a knowledgeable trapper and have the appropriate kind of trap.

48+ Hours with No Sightings of Your Dog

If there have been no sightings within 48 hours of your dog becoming lost, continue to raise awareness.

• Flyering is the best use of your time.

• If your dog’s location is still unknown, expand the flyer radius by one mile. Keep expanding by one mile every several days without any reported sightings.

• If you are getting little to no information about your dog’s location after flyering, you may consider a mass mailing through the post office’s Every Door Direct Mail program.